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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.